I cannot deny the most amazing thing about living in Abu
Dhabi…has nothing to do with Abu Dhabi. I’ve been amazed with the UAE, I have.
But for someone who has discovered that she has a little ‘wonderlust’ in her
afterall, the most amazing thing about living in Abu Dhabi, is how easy it is to
be ‘out’ of Abu Dhabi.
We apparently had a long weekend coming up. There was some
debate over this. The actual holy day was Monday, May 26th, but it
was upto the government to decide to keep the holiday on that day, push it back
to the Sunday (May 25th), or place it on the following weekend
(Thursday, May 29th). Living in the Middle East, you have to be patient
with announcements like this. Before it was confirmed Tara asked me, “Hey, do
you wanna check out Petra on the long weekend coming up?”. Throwing caution
into the wind, I decided to go for it, and was prepared to take a ‘sick day’ if
needed. Now tell me, how can you take a 3 day weekend from Canada to Jordan?
See what I mean?
Now, I may have known where we were going, but not really
having a clue with what we were going to do until Tara asked me what clothes I
was packing. Luckily she asked me ahead of time or else I would have ridden
horseback in a sundress. I also must admit, that despite being a practicing
Catholic (ok, much of my teaching career until I moved to Abu Dhabi), I was
also the student all throughout high school falling asleep in religion classes
(except for the likes of Mr. Kalenchuk and LaBatte, but even they couldn’t help
me some days!). This didn’t change in adulthood through my religious specialist
courses. No matter how hard you try, you simply cannot do the Holy Lands
justice in it’s environment, the centuries of war and politics, the Middle
Eastern way of thinking and culture, and so much more from the Canadian
classroom. I am by no means any kind of an expert now, but I can now
confidently say that I have started to chip away at the challenge of beginning
to understand. If I’m ever teaching religious education in the Canadian
classroom again, I hope I’m able to inspire my students to see Jordan and
surrounding areas for themselves.
Last Thursday evening, we took off from Abu
Dhabi, and arrived in Amman, Jordan. Our first hotel was called Petra Moon and
was located footsteps from the entrance of Petra. Getting there may have been
an invisible challenge. We rented a car and were confident in the GPS. At
first, it seemed easy. Before we knew it, we were in the dark besides our
headlights, and the only ones on the road besides a few that respectfully
passed us along the way. The roads seemed narrow, but we couldn’t be too sure.
One giveaway was the popping of our ears. We must have been hitting some pretty
high altitudes. The man behind the desk at Petra Moon welcomed us with a smile
and said we didn’t even have to show him our passports. He had our reservation
and showed us how to get to our room. Quickly we were in bed as tomorrow was
going to be filled with walking and mule-
riding.
Well rested, we picked up our friend who came
along but stayed at a different hotel, and ma
way to the entrance of the once
forgotten ancient city of Petra. Before long, we were talking to a group of
local men who owned their own horses and made a living taking tourists up and
around the countryside and down the steps of Petra on horseback. We negotiated
a price and wer
e on our way. Once on the first hill we could see our hotel and
the entire region from above. The layers of sediment, rose coloured rock will
always be in my memory. Although all 3 of us were comfortable on the horses,
worry struck when we realized we were alone. There were no other tourists in
sight. About half way through, wanting to turn around because of uncertainty,
we knew we had to keep going. Our tour guides were great; they took our photos,
stopped to tell us what we were looking at, helped us on and off the horses
(there were times the rocks were too steep for the horses to carry people AND
keep their balance at the same time), and were ready to stop and disinfect a
nasty wound. We were down to 2 tour guides for a while and then it was time to
say goodbye to Khalid. He would take our horses, Suzie (mine), Suzanna (Tara’s),
and Sherri’s to a resting spot while our main guide, Yusuf, would take us down
the steps of Petra and into the area of the Treasury.
As our initial plan was to take mules UP the
steps, I’m glad that we went the way we did and walked DOWN the steps. A dear
friend back home wanted a simple souvenir in the form of rocks (if it was
allowed). The rocks of Petra are like no other. We came across a number of
loose rocks, but none that were small enough to fit in Tara’s backpack (LOL).
To our delight, our guide picked up our favourite, easily crushed it, and gave
pieces to each of us to take back. I’m not quite sure if this is actually
allowed so ssssshhhh.
Once we were near the bottom, we came to the beginning of
the lost city. Despite 2000 years of wind, flashfloods, and deterioration, much
can still be seen. The steps of the old amphitheater, numerous houses carved
out of the rock with family tombs above (I confirmed with our tour guides later
that the Nabateans believed it was so the dead could be closer to God), and
places of worship could easily be made out. After stopping to rest at a snack
and drink area, we were on our way to the treasury. You've seen pictures, you
know what to expect, but your mouth still drops in awe and amazement at the
incredible skill and craftsmanship it must have taken to create such a
magnificent piece of work. The rock being soft was made even more pliable by
adding water. We also learned that it was carved from the top down rather than
the bottom up. Even though it was made more possible to our imaginations, I
still struggle to picture this being done before any modern
technology.
Our travels continued after the treasury to
what seemed to be a never ending winding trail of lowlands in between high
cliffs. The sun was always shining brightly but hidden away from us at times.
It was amazing to see the odd tree and flowering bush against the seemingly
barren rock. I was also taken a back by their water system that lay against the
walls of the rock at about waist height that was carried out all through Petra.
It would have taken incredible ingenuity to manipulate the water by a dam and
have it run through the city. No wonder it has been named one of the New
Wonders of the World and a protected site of UNESCO.
Our tour guide Yusuf got us back to the gates.
We said our goodbyes with a picture, and were on our way to lunch. Well fed, we
were going to be back on the road on our way to the Dead Sea. Trusting our GPS
again, we were about to encounter a very bumpy ride. The roads outside of Petra
were not congested, similar to the night before, and now we figured that we had
the advantage of daylight so we can now see where we were going. We saw
numerous Bedouin settlements and camel crossings, even the random camel. We
could feel our ears pop again as we headed down the twisty mountain terrain and
we knew we were on our way. We thought we may have hit a snag in getting to a
gravel road. This turned out to be our travel for just over an our. We figured
that due to the flash floods suffered by the area, we were now driving on ‘roads’
that are sometimes a seabed. Chunks of the road were missing at times, and we
were all silently praying for us not to go off the edge, get stuck in a
pothole, or have one of the tires blow. Tara was driving,
and she did great,
but no roads should be like the ones we were on.
Once down the mountain, it may only have been
a turn or two, and we were on the coast of the Dead Sea. The water was shining
as if it were a sheet of diamonds. Before too long, we got out to take a
picture of the coastline. We knew our hotels would be close to the Dead Sea,
but weren't sure of any views or accesses as of yet.
Tired, we came to our hotels, checked in,
relaxed, had dinner, and were in for the night. There was something that we
noticed about the main road along the coast near where we were staying. Even
within the hotels, there seemed to have been heightened security measures in place.
Tara’s fingerprints were taken off the steering wheel upon entering the hotel
parking lot, airport-like scanners in the hotel’s lobby entrance, and military
personnel on the street. We were wondering if Jordan was always like this as
tensions always seem to pester the Middle Eastern regions. Then, we opened
Facebook. There were numerous posts of the Pope meeting with a Muslim and
Jewish leader, and holding mass…yes…right here at the edge of the Dead Sea….a
mere 5 kilometers away. There were no actual dates or calendars for His
schedule, so we figured his mass that he was leading must have been on Sunday.
Friday night was coming to an end, and we looked forward to taking a dip in the
infamous Dead Sea where the salt concentration is so high, you have no choice
but to let yourself go, and float.
Our hotel, despite being on the coast, had no
current access to the sea. Luckily for us, Sherri’s
hotel did. So we were off
to sea what this was all about, getting a daypass to let us in for the day. Hot
mud awaited us. It was difficult to keep your balance (in the salty water, and
trying to walk on the natural rocky terrain). The water itself was warm with
cold spots but relaxing. The cool breeze and temperatures under 35C are some
things that we have missed in the UAE since the winter months. We weren’t sure
how Tara was going to be after being hurt the day before by the unforgiving
rocks of Petra, but luckily, she was ok and we were all able to enjoy ourselves
flopping around on the top of the water.
Next, we had lunch and decided to
follow the GPS/signs that we saw to THE Baptismal site that we noticed on the
way in. Just further on down the road, there seemed to be a soldier every 20
meters or so. Maybe they were here a day early? Then, we noticed a bishop on
the side of the road talking on his mobile. We knew we happened to pick the
luckiest (or unluckiest) day to visit the site. As the Pope was holding mass
Saturday evening, there was no way we were going to get passed the gates. The
guards were nice about it, allowed me to take a quick picture, and had us turn
around. Our flights were in the morning so we tried again by being there at
open, but the tours didn’t start until later, and there was no way that they
were going to let us go down to the site on our own. We had somewhat heavy
hearts leaving the Dead Sea and making our way to the airport, but we knew that
we would be back. Across the Dead Sea, Israel is visible. At the Southern end
of the Dead Sea, it was the site where Lot took refuge. Along the way we would
see The Prophet’s Cave. We know that we are going to be back. Besides…from Abu
Dhabi…all you need is a long weekend to help see the world.
